The Cocktail Spirit with Robert Hess
The Old Fashioned
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The Old Fashioned represents what is perhaps the oldest form of cocktail known. Unfortunately it has fallen out of favor these days, and I rarely see people ordering it. I suppose this could be partially due to the fact that most bartenders don't know how to properly make it anymore. The atrocities I often see inflicted on this drink include leaving out the bitters, and topping it off with water or soda. Please, stop the madness and let's start making this drink properly again!
Comments on This Episode
I have been introduced to this show when there were only a couple of videos online, and I must say that I am happy to see that its level of professionalism did not drop a bit. In a matter of fact it even gets better with each and every episode. What I especially value about this show Mr. Hess (and the production team, of course) is that you also tell about the background stories, as well as some of your personal experiences. Keep the good work up!
Thank you so much for your comment S. Matzke. As a small company we know that quality counts. We also know that true fans of the show come back every week because of the story Robert tells. I hope you continue to enjoy the show for years to come.
Sincerely,
Colin Kimball
President, Content Development
Small Screen Network
I think so far this is my favorite episode solely because of the enthusiasm Robert has at the beginning. After reading much of drinkboy.com I realized I had to drop everything I was doing to watch the Old Fashioned episode as soon as I saw it was up!
Very good show Robert. I like your idea on the tequila old fashioned I’ll have to try that with some grapefruit bitters and maybe a little Agave syrup or Agavero.
Brant
Great episode Robert! and the team of Small Screen Network. this show just keeps getting better as time goes by I watch every episode. I think this show is great to watch no matter what your experience level is. This show should make it to Television!
Great episode… I was actually waiting for this one, because reading your writeup on the Old Fashioned, Mr. Hess, is actually what got me into cocktails.
I actually specified no soda on the first one I ordered, just in case… So thanks!
This recipe looks great as far as using an orange in an Old Fashioned. I’ve tried a couple other recipes and I was not impressed. Thanks for the tip !
Thanks for doing the Old Fashioned, Robert. Took ya long enough!
I wanted to remind everyone that Robert has a wonderful, detailed essay on the history and development of the Old Fashioned cocktail on his DrinkBoy website, entitled “Renewing an Old Fashion”, which features dozens of recipe variations throughout the years. It’s an excellent piece of cocktail scholarship, and should be of particular interest to all our fellow Old Fashioned lovers.
Glad that everybody has enjoyed this episode so much! Since we filmed this episode, I did go back and work on the “Tequila” Old Fashioned. Lemon Bitters along with the Agave syrup works really well for that. Haven’t tired it yet with Grapefruit bitters… guess I know one of the drinks I’ll be mixing up tonight! :->
Great episode. After chasing the old-fashioned from bar to bar myself, I have never had a completely satisfactory experience with the old fashioned, although my love of the manhattan has made me feel like I was yet to find the ideal recipe. Bravo. Now I can make this drink with confidence while I’m behind the stick.
I have been a dedicated viewer ever since I found this site. I appreciate the care put in to every aspect of this series. Much gratitude.
Great episode. Love the show.
Why not use orange bitters in the old fashioned? Or would it become to orangy?
I use Regan’s Orange Bitters sometimes, works great.
Brant,
I gave your “Grapefruit Bitters” idea a try, and even did a writeup about it over on “The Spirit World” (http://thespiritworld.net/2007/10/01/tequila-old-fashioned/)
-Robert
Matt, Owen,
Yes, Orange bitters can work great in this drink, Regan’s, Fee’s, the Bitter Truth, Hermes, or the hopefully soon to be available Angostura Orange Bitters all work nicely, with each providing it’s own slightly different character. You have to use more than a dash or two in order to get the full effect. I know that Gary Regan himself loves to use quite a few heavy dashes in his… perhaps he’s just trying to get folks to go through more of his bitters that way :->
Just out of curiosity, what sugar-to-water ratio do you use for your simple syrup?
Thanks for the great videos! I’ve been a fan since the first episodes!
Robert,
While we’re talking about simple syrup, I was wondering how much vodka you put in your simple syrup in order to store it at room temperature? I’ve been using 1 ounce of vodka for every 8 ounces of simple syrup. Is this enough, or not enough?
Matt
Thanks for the “special ending”. I made the flamed old fashioned for some friends and they loved it.
I also (before seeing your update) made several Old Fashioneds that night, and in one I tried the orange bitters in the cocktail but I used just a dash or two like I would with the Angostura. The drink tasted significantly more “whiskeyey” (not a word, but hard to describe the difference). People prefered the Angostura version unanimously. However, next time I will try more orange bitters and see if that cuts (or maybe the correct word is balances) the whiskey better.
I love (!!!) Old Fashioneds and except of muddling any fruit or filling it up with soda, you hardly can do something really wrong…
However I think that the sugar cube adds the real magic!
I take an orange and rub a sugar cube on it (all sides). Then I soak the cube with Angostura Bitters (in this case no Orange Bitters - as you have the freshest orange oil you can imagine!).
Then I add a bit (may be 1 or 1.5 cl) of water (actually I normally use soda, but only because it is handy - at the end there is definitely no more sparkling). Now I muddle the sugar with the back of the bar spoon and stir till it is completely dissolved in the water. I add 2 cubes of ice and 2cl Rye (!) stir and add another 2 cubes of ice and again some Rye and stir and add another couple of cubes of ice and some Rye and stir again!
At the end you can use a lemon or orange twist or half lemon and orange wheels with a brandied cherry (for the moment I like the idea with the twist).
I like more the flamed orange twist over a Cosmopolitan then with an Old Fashioned…
And: the better the whiskey the better the cocktail!
Cheers!
Dominik MJ
Dominick,
Using a sugar cube to rub against the orange rind indeed adds some additional distinctive flavor here, serving much the same purpose as my cutting the orange peel over the glass, and then squeezing the peel into it. It would be interesting to see which extracted more oils.
I specifically use simple syrup in my OF recipes just to get the “water” as far away from the recipe as possible, thus hopefully stopping bartenders from accidently doing the “top off” trick.
I’m not totally sold on the ice-whiskey (stir) ice-whiskey (stir) ice-whiskey (stir) approach. This was popularized in London, where they often proudly reflect on how long it takes them to make an Old Fashioned this way. All the times I’ve had them like this, they are way over watered. The only reason for not adding all the ice at once, is to prevent the ice from popping out of the glass as you stir. I don’t think adding it increments really provides any specific benefit. But I’m definately willing to be wrong on this. Here is where experimentation becomes important in the process.
-Robert
I didn’t thought about the pedagogical dimension. Simple syrup is indeed much better than filling up the drink with soda…
However I am for the ice-stiring-ice method. If you have a closer look on the old fashioned every part of the cocktail has a specific function:
Whiskey is the base (for the aroma - for the whole drink)
Sugar is the aroma enhancer.
Bitters (including orange oils) improving the structure and depth.
Melted Water is taking the alcohol burn (or bite) and adds a certain drinkability…
Definitely there shouldn’t be too much water - however to do a Old Fashioned with 3 ice-whiskey-stirring steps doesn’t make it over-diluted! However you yield a lower temperature (and less further dilution, if the drink is ready).
But I am with you: it depends how you are doing the drink (like all drinks) - overdoing a drink is as fatal as taking too many shortcuts…
I suppose in the end, it really doesn’t matter which approach you use, ice-whiskey-stir, ice-whiskey-stir, ice-whiskey stir, or just ice-whiskey-stir.... as long as the end result is a drink of “this” temperature with “this” amount of whiskey and “this’ amount of added water. Thermal dynamics as they are, it’s more about the “time” taken to make the drink, than the stir once, or stir multiple times approach (for the most part).
Great presentation and content. I am inspired to venture into my well stocked liquor cabinet.
Here are a few suggestions about your presentation:
1. Cut the part about finding an old lemon peel in the squeezer and then rinsing the squeezer from your floor sink (bucket) ?
2. In the introducton traiiler, how about briefly demonstrating how to measure an ounce using different types of shot glasses ?
3. Change the ‘drink boy’ logo on your shirt to ‘The Cocktail Spirit’ or ‘Mixology with Robert Hess’.
4. Label the left column on your Web page as follows:
Ingrediants
a.
b.
c.
etc…
Recipe or Blending or Mixing .... ?
a.
b.
c.
Thanks again. I am going to try the Cosmo tonight !
A very good presentation on what is and how to make an Old Fashioned with whisky. As for whiskies, my tenure at Olaf’s on Telegraph Ave. in Berkely, CA required that we use 100 proof Old Grandad. It was the owner’s preference. We also mixed starting with simple syrup unless the guest watching insisted we mull one or two sugar cubes (along with a piece of ice and the dash of bitters). Again, and not just for the sake of presentation, we flamed wide strips of orange peel with elan and pride knowing the result would entertain as well as add a unique note of caramelized orange. And the marachinos were dark, naturally flavorful cherries. Can’t remember the brand. Granted, they were a showy garnish, but we NEVER used those flame-red colored things with the artificial flavoring. You’ve done your research well and it’s a pleasure to watch you mix.
Nash,
Now why couldn’t YOU have been behind the bar some of those times I ordered an Old Fashioned. You definately sound like you’re hitting on all of the right cylindars there. I need to head down to Berkley and get a good Old Fashioned for a change!
-Robert
Robert,
I came across your website years ago and found your Old Fashioned recipe, entirely at random. I wondered to myself “What is this bitters stuff he speaks of?” I purchased a bottle of it the next time I went food shopping, went right home, and began tinkering with the Old Fashioned. In the three or so years since I believe I have mastered the drink. The problem is, no one else has. I’ve ordered it in bars from Boston to Atlantic City and not once has it even approached even acceptable. Several bartenders didn’t even know what bitters were. One handed it to me in a pint glass topped off with club soda. Yet another made me an excellent Manhattan. When I want one at my local watering hole I usually have to go behind the bar and make it myself. My attempts to get a proper Old Fashioned have often left me dejected, sitting alone in the corner of the bar, sucking down Pabst Blue Ribbons, contemplating my failures. Is there a cocktail you recommend? Something that will satisfy an Old Fashioned drinker but will not stymie the feces-chucking apes that call themselves bartenders.
Mike D,.
Mike,
The problem you relate on finding bartenders who can make a serviceable Old Fashioned, is one that I share with you. The vast majority of OFs I have are swill, changing that situation has been one of my personal goals for several years now. Slowly I see it making a difference, but it often seems too slowly.
Finding the “right” bars that can make the “right” cocktails often makes me feel like I’m researching the script for the next Mission Impossible movie.
The closest I have to a good classic cocktail that can be relatively safe to order, is the “Manhattan”.
-Robert
This is a fine installment, indeed!
I feel fortunate that my first exposure to the Old Fashioned was with an excellent bartender (in Durham, NC) who made me a great one very early in my imbibing career. He muddled the orange and cherry, but otherwise built the drink from the glass up. To me, the Old Fashioned experience take place over time—the gradual mellowing of the whiskey as the ice melts and the sweeter flavors mix in.
My more frequent bar experience is the one you describe Robert. Worst of all, bartenders shake the drink! It comes out tasting like cough syrup.
Sign me up for the Old Fashioned Liberation Army! I will no longer accept a poorly made cocktail.
Robert,
Im hosting a whiskey conference in Louisville in April.
I was thinking a asking a “bar” person to come an talk to the group.
Give me a call.
bill owens 510-886-7418
One other question, Robert: you mentioned your preference for an orange peel twist rather than muddled orange so that you don’t get pulp clogging up the cocktail straw. Do you really sip this through a straw? It hasn’t occurred to me to actually use a cocktail straw before. Please elaborate. Thanks!
Firstly I’d like to congratulate Robert & the team on the show. Its the first one I’ve seen and I’m quite frankly amazed at the professionalism and overall presentation. Just a query though regarding the flamed orange zest. Does using matches impart a sulphur like metallic flavour/aroma to the drink? I would’ve thought a standard gas lighter (not Zippo) would be less offensive?
Cheers
Jas,
Thank you for the compliment and your support. We hope you enjoy the current episodes as well as the future episodes we recently shot that will be coming out in March.
As for the match/lighter question, I will let the scientists in the community answer that one: ->
Thank you for watching!
Colin Kimball
President, Content Development
Producer
Small Screen Network
Jas, the key to using a wooden match, and something I should have pointed out, is to not flame the orange peel too quickly after lighting the match, this allows the sulfer and chemicals to burn off first so you just have the burning wood. The problem with a ligher, is that since it is burning gas, that imparts a bit of flavor as well. I suppose the “best’ way to do this would be to light a simple stick on a candle, and use that. (or a piece of spagetti)
Great show,Robert.I like the way orange is used in an old fashioned way..thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the great video on “The Old Fashioned”. This along with the Manhattan have also been my classic drinks to “test” the quality of the bartender. Do you request a specific whiskey or just see what they use?
I had an interesting experience recently when I ordered a Manhattan from the table at a restaurant. The waitress came back and said that the bartender couldn’t make the drink because they didn’t have any bitters. That impressed me with the integrity of the bartender, but the fact that the bar did not have any bitters really disappointed me in the stocking of the bar by the restaurant.
Whiskey in an Old Fashioned… if the bartender asks me which whiskey I want, I’ll usually pick one, most common for me is Maker’s Mark, but there are of course many other fine ones to choose from as well.
I was at a fancy steak restaurant in Vegas recently and the only bitters they had behind the bar was Peychaud’s (and since I’ve been there three years in a row now, I know that this is all they ever carry). Which they proceeded to use in a Manhattan as well as an Old Fashioned, when I tried to point out their error here, they couldn’t quite understand. So I switched to drinks that actually work well with Peychaud’s :->
Robert,
What kind of bitters did Jerry Thomas use in this drink? I’m guessing that he made his own. I’m guessing that during prohibition, bitters did not sell well in the US and that after repeal (Happy 75th Repeal Day, by the way!) most bartender’s just neglected to use them at all.
As for the muddling of orange and maraschino, I’m sure that is just laziness, since the proper way to do it takes some time.
Blair Frodelius
Jerry’s version of the “Old Fashioned” was simply a “Whiskey Cocktail”, as published in his 1862 edition of “How To Mix Drinks”. Where it lists the bitters as “Bogart’s"… which is believed to be the publishers misspelling of “Boker’s”. This bitters unfortunately hasn’t been made for over a hundred years as far as I know. I’ve had a chance to taste some, and it is different than Angostura, with a heavy, but not overpowering, “Cardammom” flavor. The folks over at The-Bitter-Truth.com are attempting to work up a version of this, which they are calling “Jerry Thomas Bitters”.
Here is the whiskey cocktail recipe as recorded by Mr. Thomas:
109. Whiskey Cocktail
(Use small bar glass.)
3 or 4 dashes of gum syrup.
2 do. Bitters (Bogart’s)
1 wine-glass of whiskey, and a piece of lemon peel.
Fill one-third full of fine ice; shake and strain in a fancy red wine-glass.
You can find more details about the overall history/evolution of the Old Fashioned here:
http://www.drinkboy.com/Essays/RenewingAnOldFashion.html
-Robert

Make sure you watch this episode all the way to the end, there is a little added bit that I think is a fun way to “enhance” the old fashioned.